This era is characterised by enormous vitality and a great sense of style. Jewellery became an art form and a medium for creative expression, with cutting edge designers, goldsmiths and jewellers producing pieces where art and fashion fused. Jewellery from the 1960s and 70s was breaking the shackles of a more restrained past. Top London designer jewellers and goldsmiths included Andrew Grima who opened his wonderful showroom in Jermyn Street with a dramatic modern statement utilising large slabs of slate to adorn the shop front. His jewels were varied and original, using stones cut in a novel and unusual way. Charles De Temple produced pieces using pearls and other stones “wrapped” in gold; he made the ring for the James Bond movie Goldfinger. Gerda Flockinger, the first woman jeweller to have a solo show at the V & A, retailed her pioneering designs through the famous modernist Electrum Gallery. John Donald had a very artistic style embracing crystals and rough gems as well as pearls. Other leading jewellers were David Thomas, Stuart Devlin (also a renowned silversmith), Alan Gard, and the firm of Kutchinsky.
Gerald Benney 18 carat gold bangle with opals, signed AGB 1975
Charles de Temple amethyst and 18 carat gold necklace, 1970s, sgned C DE T
Kutchinsky onyx and 18 carat gold pendant, 1970s, signed Kutchinsky
Kutchinsky Onyx & 18k Gold Pendant. This large but wearable pendant was designed by Kutchinsky, a London jewellery company that sold highly fashionable pieces in the 1970s from their Knightsbridge shop. The pendant is 7 x 7 cms in diameter and can be worn on a chain or torque. It is signed in full script Kutchinsky with London hallmarks for 1972.
Andrew Grima Brooch & Earrings.
This wonderful brooch in textured 18k gold has a central star ruby with four other star rubies and diamonds. It measures approximately 6.3 cms in diameter. Signed GRIMA with a plaque. The earrings are also marked with HJCo and London hallmarks for 1975.
Andrew Grima Brooch/Pendant.
This versatile piece was designed and made by Andrew Grima, and is set with diamonds and five sapphires. Signed GRIMA, with full London hallmarks for 1975. It measures 6 x 3.2cms and is eminently wearable as either a brooch or a pendant.
Stuart Devlin Tri-Coloured Gold Bracelet.
Late 1970s, signed SD for Stuart Devlin with London hallmarks.